Bulls Blood Beets
Sowing
Direct sow Bull’s Blood beet seeds outside 4 weeks before the last expected frost. Soften the seeds by soaking them in water for 2 hours, then plant in full sun and well drained soil. Sow them 1″ deep and 1″ apart in rows 1-2′ apart. Tamp down the earth above the seeds to ensure good contact with the soil, and germination should take place in 5-15 days. Add compost or other organic matter for healthy growth. For companion planting benefits, plant Bull’s Blood beet seeds with bush beans, onions, or members of the cabbage family; avoid planting them near pole beans.
Growing
Since each beet “seed” holds up to 8 actual seeds, the seedlings will need to be thinned to 3″ apart. The uprooted plants do well as a second crop, as transplanting them will set them about 2 weeks behind the original plants. Take care not to bruise the seedlings when weeding. They love cool weather, and can survive temperatures down to 25F.
Harvesting
Beets have the best taste and tenderness when they are harvested between 1″ and 3″ in diameter. After pulling them, twist off the tops about 1″ up the stem to prevent the beets from bleeding. Bull’s Blood beets also produce especially lovely and tasty reddish purple tops that mature in 40 days. One-third of the tops can be harvested without damaging the plant.
Seed Saving
Since beets are wind pollinated, be sure to separate them from other varieties of chard and beet by at least two miles to preserve genetic purity. Beet plants must weather the winter in order to produce seed. In warmer climates, simply mulch the plants. In cooler climates, dig up the roots and store them in sand, without the roots touching each other, in a cool and humid location – plant them again in early spring. The plants will soon go to seed in the spring; wait until the seed heads are fully grown and dry before removing them. The seeds will readily come off the stems after they are completely dry. Store the seed in a cool, dry place for up to five years.
Common Pests
Aphids: The common name for many species of aphids that infect gardens is plant lice, as that is exactly what they look like. Aphids sucks plant juices, weakening the leaves and the stems. Fortunately there are a dozen major predators to every type of aphid. The most common predator are the lady beetle, small wasps, syrphid fly larvae, and lacewings. Most of the time insecticide is not needed for removing aphids, a strong stream of water from the hose will do just fine, as will soapy water.
Leaf Miners: Pale tracings on leaves that look like the meandering trail of a worm are the work of leaf miners. They are actually tiny fly larvae that are difficult to catch in the act of eating. They lurk inside the leaf, often as whitish bulges, and are most often seen on birch trees, beets, columbine, Swiss chard, and spinach. The adults are small flies that emerge in the summer. Should miners attack a certain crop each summer, monitor when the damage starts and cover the plants with floating row covers during the weeks when miners are expected to appear.
