Coriander Cilantro
Sowing:
Though coriander thrives in rich, well drained soil and full sun, it will tolerate some shade. Gardeners in warm climates may have the best success with cilantro coriander plant seeds by planting it at any time from September through February, since it is a cool weather plant. It can also be planted as soon as possible in the spring, or after the heat of summer as a fall crop. Since this herb does not take transplanting well, direct sow the seeds 1/2″ deep in rows 18-20″ apart; thin the seedlings to 12″ apart as soon as they develop leaves. Germination usually takes 2-3 weeks. For a continuous harvest, plant a new crop every 2-3 weeks. Coriander does not do well as a container plant because of its large taproot.
Growing:
Keep the plants well watered, and control weeds. Coriander can survive even hard frosts, while several days of temperatures above 75 degrees F will cause it to flower immediately and produce leaves that have a very bitter taste. Applying a layer of mulch may help keep the roots cool and delay bolting.
Harvesting:
Harvest the leaves of the plant, known as cilantro, as needed; the secondary, feather-like leaves cannot be eaten because of their bitter taste. Cilantro coriander plant seeds can easily be gathered as soon as they ripen to a straw color; remove the seed heads and let them dry completely, then thresh to remove the seeds. Store in an airtight container. The seeds can also be used when still green for a slightly different texture and taste.
Seed Saving:
About 2-3 weeks after the plant flowers, the seeds will begin to develop. Pick the seed heads when they ripen to a straw color, then spread them out to dry in a protected location away from direct sunlight. Thresh to remove the cilantro coriander plant seeds from the stems, and store in a cool dry place.
Common Pests:
Aphids: The common name for many species of aphids that infect gardens is plant lice, as that is exactly what they look like. Aphids sucks plant juices, weakening the leaves and the stems. Fortunately there are a dozen major predators to every type of aphid. The most common predator are the lady beetle, small wasps, syrphid fly larvae, and lacewings. Most of the time insecticide is not needed for removing aphids, a strong stream of water from the hose will do just fine, as will soapy water.
Cutworms: They are among the most inefficient eaters in the insect world. A few bites and they are done, which means a single cutworm can kill a dozen plants in a few days time. Fortunately this damage is easily preventable, when you transplant the seedlings, encircle them with a protective collar made from a paper cup with the bottom punched out. Another method is to stick a toothpick or twig down the side of the plant stem. When the cutworm attempts to encircle the stem to girdle it, the tough wood gets in the way.