Long Island Brussels Sprouts
Sowing
Since frost brings out the best flavor in brussels sprouts, plant them late in May or early in June for a fall crop. Start Long Island Improved Brussels sprouts seeds by planting them 1/2″ deep in soil; when they grow to 6″ tall, transplant or thin them 2′ apart. Compress the soil around the seed and keep the ground moist.
Growing
Mulch to preserve the moisture in the soil. Remove weeds carefully to avoid disturbing the plants. If heavy winds threaten the plant, provide a stake for support. As the leaves on the stem turn yellow, take them off so that the sprouts can freely develop. If aphids appear, eliminate them with a strong stream of water from a hose.
Harvesting
About four months after transplanting, the first sprouts should be ready. Twist them off the stem from the bottom up; sprouts about 1″ in diameter are the most tender. To continue harvesting sprouts after frost, hang the entire plant upside down in a cool place; sprouts will continue to mature for a few more weeks. Long Island Improved sprouts freeze quite well.
Seed Saving
Seed heads will not develop until early spring, so overwintering the plant will be necessary. If the climate is cold, this means digging up the plant and storing it, stem and all, in moist sand at a temperature of about 40 degrees F. Replant 3-4 weeks before the last spring frost. Allow the sprouts left on the plant to flower, mature, and fully dry on the stem. The seed heads will open as soon as they are dry and brown, so watch them closely in order to save the seed before it falls to the ground. Store Long Island Improved Brussels sprouts seeds in a cool, dry place for up to five years.
Common Pests
Cutworms: They are among the most inefficient eaters in the insect world. A few bites and they are done, which means a single cutworm can kill a dozen plants in a few days time. Fortunately this damage is easily preventable, when you transplant the seedlings, encircle them with a protective collar made from a paper cup with the bottom punched out. Another method is to stick a toothpick or twig down the side of the plant stem. When the cutworm attempts to encircle the stem to girdle it, the tough wood gets in the way.
Flea Beetles: As soon as leaves appear, flea beetle’s hop on and begin making tiny holes in them. There are about a dozen common types of flea beetles. They are usually most numerous in spring and die down as the summer progresses. Despite their small size, flea beetles are very mobile and will move around the garden tasting everything until they find a favorite crop. Most damage is cosmetic and the plant can quickly recover. These beetles usually are not a problem for home gardens, but can be removed by taking a small piece of cardboard and covering it in honey or another sticky substance and held above the infested plant as you gently shake it to cause the beetles to hop to the cardboard.
