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Yellow Dent Corn

Yellow Dent Corn

Sowing:

Prepare the soil with compost or other organic matter. One week after frost or when the soil consistently reaches 60 degrees F, plant the corn 1″ deep and 8-12″ apart. Planting blocks of four short rows ensures good pollination. Germination should take place in 5-6 days. For companion planting benefits, plant corn with cucumbers, peas, or pole beans; plants that like shade also do well with corn. Avoid planting tomatoes near corn.

Growing:

After the corn emerges, keep it moist and carefully remove weeds; since corn cannot fight against weeds, mulch may be beneficial. Additional organic matter or compost helps growth, since corn is a heavy feeder. Keep in mind that corn has shallow roots which can easily become damaged by hoeing. Watch out for pests, as corn attracts many problematic insects and animals.

Harvesting:

Leaving the corn on its stalks to completely dry in the field gives the best results; when they are ready to harvest, the stalk and the ears will be completely brown with no green coloring at all. However, since continued rainy weather and humidity compromise the quality of the ears, it may be necessary to continue drying them inside. Choose a dry location with moderate heat, but out of direct sunlight; hang the stalks upside down, or lay them out flat.

Seed Saving:

Since corn cross-pollinates quite easily with other varieties, seed plants will need to be separated from other pollinating varieties of corn by about 1,000 feet or otherwise prevented from pollinating each other. Allow the seed corn to dry completely on the stalk, until the husk and the stalk have turned brown. If rainy weather comes, cut off the stalks and lay them out in a dry, well ventilated location. Test for dryness by hitting the kernels with a hammer; if they shatter, they are ready for storage. Remove the kernels by running your hands over the cobs; winnow out the chaff. Store Reid’s Yellow Dent corn seeds in a cool, dry place.

Common Pests:

Aphids: The common name for many species of aphids that infect gardens is plant lice, as that is exactly what they look like. Aphids sucks plant juices, weakening the leaves and the stems. Fortunately there are a dozen major predators to every type of aphid. The most common predator are the lady beetle, small wasps, syrphid fly larvae, and lacewings. Most of the time insecticide is not needed for removing aphids, a strong stream of water from the hose will do just fine, as will soapy water.

Cutworms: They are among the most inefficient eaters in the insect world. A few bites and they are done, which means a single cutworm can kill a dozen plants in a few days time. Fortunately this damage is easily preventable, when you transplant the seedlings, encircle them with a protective collar made from a paper cup with the bottom punched out. Another method is to stick a toothpick or twig down the side of the plant stem. When the cutworm attempts to encircle the stem to girdle it, the tough wood gets in the way.

 

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